The only techniques used in this pattern are ring, chain, reverse work, picot, join, and lock join.
Tat the top row across first, shown in gray on the diagram. Then continue tatting down and up for each narrow section. The picots between the narrow sections need to be gradually larger to enable the sections to fan out nicely.
I made mine using size 10 thread, but since this collar is worn like a necklace, the size doesn't really matter.This is the quickest I have ever designed a tatting pattern - only 4 days from just a vague feeling I should design a pattern based on RBG's dissent collar, to a finished collar, to a sharable diagram.