The "flip" of tatting slow video

 

As a response to requests to show "the flip" of shuttle tatting, here's the longer video that I put on YouTube. A short version is posted on Instagram and TikTok. 

I remember trying to figure out "the flip" from looking at pictures in a book, many years ago before the Internet existed. Frustrating, right? Well, I hope the video helps someone. Also, I hope no one minds that I show my own way of tatting as well as the more traditional slip and slide way. Everyone tats differently, but "the flip" is the same. ☺

Tatting a Catherine Wheel Join

New video demonstration of the "Catherine Wheel Join" has been added to my YouTube channel. Although I already had a video about the CWJ technique, I noticed that the original was posted 14 years ago (using outdated technology) so I made a new one! 

Ginkgo Leaf

 

Last week I made a "short" (brief video in vertical format) of tatting this Ginkgo Leaf pattern and uploaded it to YouTube. It's also on Instagram and a slightly longer version is on TikTok. 

Since it's a short, it's not a complete how-to, but only a quick peek to get people interested. Although... surprisingly it contains a nice demo of the Catherine Wheel Join. 

My original, longer video of a Catherine Wheel Join is still on YouTube, uploaded 14 years ago. Wow, that old one looks so blurry! Amazing how far technology has come in 14 years. :-)

Split chain in shuttle tatting

For YouTube I made a demo of how I do a split chain. The project that I'm working on in the video is "Steampunk Belt" which has 1 split chain in the pattern.

Pattern and video for a menorah in tatting

 

This design was developed from the branched candlestick photo on page 79 of the book "Tatting Techniques" by Elgiva Nicholls. Although there wasn't much description about it, I could see that the technique was branching encapsulation, so I went on from there.

It's a tricky project to explain, so I made a video. It's on YouTube at https://youtu.be/8mR94S5-GFk?si=0QxP-UdlDLNF1BSb

The PDF pattern is a free instant download from https://www.keepandshare.com/doc/8291924/menorah-pdf-785k?da=y

Please let me know if either of the links won't work!

I made this pattern as sort of a challenge to see if I could do it.☺ Another tatter was looking for a menorah pattern, so I helped search... and found nothing. Only a few rumors that somebody had tatted a menorah, but no pictures could be found online. Well, now there are pictures and video and a pattern.☺ It's a challenging project, though! Recommended for experienced tatters.

Vintage letter "B" made easier, or perhaps not!

 

The tatted alphabet in Priscilla Tatting Book No. 2, published 1915 has instructions in paragraphs so densely packed that it is hard to figure out. 

Here are my 21st Century "hacks" to make it easier... or perhaps I've made it worse! I'm only going to give instructions for the letter "B", but all the letters are combinations of similar elements. So here we go!

This project is mostly chains. For shuttle tatting only 1 to 2 yards on the shuttle and leave attached to the ball.

Begin at the top of the straight side of letter "B". R 2-2-2-2-2-2, close ring, RW.

Ch 7, 2 first halves, drop picot, 2 second halves. (It's simpler to write the same instructions this way: Ch 8, drop picot. The 2 second halves count as the first double stitch in the next set of Ch 8. I hope this makes sense.) The original instructions do not have a drop picot. They did a join at that area by wrapping the thread around the chain, like what we would call an "alligator join".  

Ch 8, drop picot, then normal picot.

Ch 10, drop picot, Ch 10. Tighten a little, but keep the chain straight. RW (turn work to go back).

Bottom ring: R 2-2-2-2-2-2, close ring.

[Ch 4-4-4. Lock join to next drop picot.] 2 times.

Ch 4-4. Lock join to next drop picot. Ch 4-4. Wrap thread below 1st ring, turning ring to face front side up.

Ch 9-9-10-8+(lock join to picot of 1st chain) 8+(normal join to previous chain) 11-12-12.

Wrap thread around bottom ring. RW. 

For front side, back side tatting, tat the following row "back side".

Ch 4-4-4. Lock join. Ch 4-4-4-4. Lock join.

Ch 4-4-4. Lock join to picot joining previous chain.

[Ch 4-4-4. Lock join.] 3 times.

Tie threads around top ring, hide ends, and cut.

Here is a sign I made using tatted letters. It says "Beach" to remind me that I live only a few miles from a beach!

Tatting a Catherine Wheel Join from the back side

Here's the demo I did showing the tatting technique of the Catherine Wheel Join (CWJ) from the back side. 

The reason for doing it that way would be if the project was being tatted "front side, back side" and the CWJ was on the back side, and if you really wanted the smooth curving chains having an unbroken line of double stitches showing on the front side. So, probably rarely used, but there was interest so I made this video!

It's really just like the normal (front side) method of the CWJ, but reversed. Up where there was down, etc.

YouTube told me that my first CWJ video (the "front side" one) was made 10 years ago. Great Scott! Has it really been that long?

Knit sweater progress and CWJ thinking

The sweater has reached the stage of stitch holders for the front sections while continuing to knit the back. In the photo it's with some new fabric that I purchased to sew a skirt. Included is the Shell Pendant from my Craftsy class and here's the reason I have it out (other than it coincidently does look good with the future ensemble!)

Someone asked for instructions on tatting the shell so that it would face the opposite way. Well, the easiest is simply to tat it as written, then turn it over - but then it's back side up (which most people wouldn't really notice) but we tatters do notice the details, do we not?

So mostly, "back side" up tatting means making the double stitches in reverse order (2nd half first, 1st half second) but then we reach the Catherine Wheel Joins (CWJ) on the smooth outer curve. A recent search of the Internet didn't turn up instructions for tatting CWJ from the back side, so I guess I'll need to do a video of it myself. Let me know if someone else does have a tutorial for "Back side" CWJ! Anyway, it's been added to the to-do list.

Weaving has not progressed very far but here's a photo for those interested.

It's quite jazzy with all the colors and pattern jumbled up together; I like it! Also it's giving me more ideas!

On an unrelated note - literally a music note - I just found out the musician's concert seating for the December 1st concert of the community orchestra I play cello in. I've been assigned to first stand! (The first row of cellos nearest the conductor.) So, it means I had better not skimp on the practicing!!! Ah well, all this excitement keeps my mind occupied with good things.

An Experiment with Bina's Layered Chain Technique

 

"Devotion" heart tatted with layered chains

This was the first time that I used Layered Chains in a finished project, and I wanted to learn how far I could push the limits of the technique.

The chains in 2 colors, layered on top of each other were tatted using Sabina Carden-Madden's technique of Layered Chains. This is a variation of pearl tatting technique that was published in the Winter 2006-2007 issue of "The Bulletin" by I.O.L.I (International Organization of Lace). 

The Layered Chains:

Fill 2 shuttles, each with a different color thread, and leave the thread attached to the balls.

Hold both ball threads for the core, same as for pearl tatting.

I used the light color for the bottom (inside chain), and the dark color for the top (outside chain). So, since I'm right handed, the light color (shuttle 1) was at my right hand, and the dark color (shuttle 2) to the left.

Tat a normal double stitch using ONLY the light color (bottom) core thread.

The double stitch is flipped as usual. I've shown only the first half in progress in the photo.

After each bottom double stitch, use shuttle 2 (dark thread) to wrap an unflipped double stitch over both core threads. I've shown only the first half in progress here. Notice that the top stitch (dark) is wrapping around both core threads, but NOT the shuttle 1 thread.

Continue alternating the bottom and top stitches in the same way. Both are 1st half, 2nd half as usual, but the top ones are unflipped. 

Count the stitches as usual, remembering to finish the same number of stitches each side.

To curve the chain, pull shuttle 1 only.

This is how the finished tatting looked before blocking. Very crowded and curled up, which is not the result I have when this design is made using normal tatting. So, I am thinking that it would be better to choose a pattern with more open space in it, to leave room for the bulkier layered chains.

I found that I like what I had considered the "back side" better than what I had thought would be the "front side"! Here are pictures of both sides. 

This Layered Chain technique is slow and requires concentration. I found it very fiddly at first. Eventually I was able to develop a sort of rhythm, if not speed. I enjoyed seeing the results!

Interlocking rings with any shuttle

 

Here are some screenshots from the video demo I made for TikTok. I'll do another in horizontal format for YouTube, eventually! Size 10 thread is easier to try this technique with.

To do the last ring so that it interlocks with the first ring, remove enough thread from the shuttle to tat the ring, and cut the thread.  Put the thread down through the previous ring, and wrap around your hand to form the working circle for tatting the ring. Then put the thread down through the first ring made, and down again through the previous ring. I find it easier to finger tat the first double stitch, then I tie the thread back onto the shuttle to finish tatting the ring. Close the ring.

Observations about Interlocking Rings

The tail of the first ring can be hidden by tatting over it with the first few double stitches.

 

Leaving a loop of thread sticking out gives me something to hold onto while putting the narrow Celtic shuttle down through the ring and down through the ring again.

Then I turn the ring over (back side) to get the first half of the first double stitch snugged up tightly against the previous ring, making the sticking out loop disappear.

Tat the ring and close, turning the tatting to front side. Continue the same steps for subsequent rings until the final ring.

To tat the final ring, go down through the previous ring, down through the first ring, and down through the previous ring again.  Tat the ring and close. 

I find that moving and turning the other rings out of the way helps with closing the final ring tightly.

I did not invent the technique of tatting Interlocking Rings with a Celtic shuttle, these are just some things that help me remember how to do it, so sharing in case it helps you too.

Lark's Head Picot Join from the Back Side

 The Lark's Head Picot Join looks just like a double stitch (on the front side). There are several tutorials for how to do it online, but the ones I found all showed how to do it from the front side of the tatting. I simply reversed those instructions to tat it from the back side.

Note: double stitches are in reverse order when tatting back side (2nd half first, 1st half second).

Tatting a chain and joining a ring with one hand

Inspired by the book “Tatting With One Hand” by Helen A. Chesno, in this video I'm tatting a chain, and then another ring joined to the 1st ring. This is a method of tatting for people who have the use of only one hand. It may also help anyone to understand the “flip” of shuttle tatting.

Left hand demo HERE.

Basically, the pillow and pins are doing the job of holding the thread and tatting in place of what the other hand would be doing. Other than that, it's the same as regular shuttle tatting.

The pillow I used for the demonstration is just an ordinary decorative "throw" pillow, with a synthetic pillow form insert. A small round "cookie" pillow designed for bobbin lacemaking would work well.

Blog post with still photos:
http://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2011/07/one-handed-tatting.html
I used a different method of tatting the first half in those photos, with the same results.

Video of tatting a ring with one hand: http://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2018/03/tatting-ring-with-one-hand.html

Tatting a ring with one hand

Inspired by the book “Tatting With One Hand” by Helen A. Chesno, this is my attempt to show the technique. A method of tatting for people who have the use of only one hand. It may also help others to understand the “flip” of shuttle tatting.

To see as left hand, watch the video in a mirror.

Blog post with still photos: http://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2011/07/one-handed-tatting-ring.html
I used a different method of tatting the first half in those photos, with the same results.

Elegance Earrings video demo

The pattern Elegance earrings is found in Boutique Tatting.

This video is the result of people reminding me that I haven't made a video in a while, plus I wanted a new pair of earrings for New Year's Eve with a lot of bling!

If anyone is wondering about the pink leaf teardrop beads that show in the background but aren't used in the earrings, they were originally "plan A", but I decided on the gold drop beads instead. I played with colors! All of the beads are the size called for in the pattern, except the smaller gold seed beads were size 15/0 instead of size 11/0. The thread used was my own hand dyed, size 20 in "Roses".

Naturally, I edited out a lot of the boring, repetitious parts, so tatting the actual earring will take longer than 11 minutes for most folks! I do hope that the video helps make the tatting techniques and the design a bit more understandable.

Encapsulation and the stone pendant

 In this pendant, I used a Mookaite Jasper stone with colors that went well with my "Knitty Gritty" hand dyed thread. Using inspiration from several wire-wrapping tutorials that I found in books and online I launched forth into wrapping the stone.

I tatted the flower motif separately. Then, when I got to the place in the wire-wrapping where I wanted the tatting to be, I wrapped the wire over the tatting. To clarify, I only wrapped the wire over the tatting in a few places, to catch it in place. I folded the tatting out of the way to continue the wire-wrapped pattern underneath. 

The methods I use for tatting the little flowers are Josephine rings (rings tatted using only the same half stitch repeated) and encapsulation (tatting over multiple core threads). Scroll down for the tutorial on these techniques.

Wire weaving in progress.

Catching the tatted motif in place, while continuing to weave the wire under the tatting.

The front side of the finished pendant.

The back side of the pendant.

 Here's a tutorial on the encapsulation technique that I use for the little flower motifs.

You need at least 3 threads. For this example I used a continuous multicolored thread on 2 shuttles plus a contrasting color on a 3rd shuttle. 

 The threads can be knotted together, but I like to get started without a knot. I pick up one of the shuttles with the continuous thread, which is the color that I want for the rings (flower petals), and tat a Josephine ring. I like to use the 1st half of the double stitch only, because it gives a tighter ring. But, the 2nd half of the double stitch can be used instead, for a looser look. The differing results are because the 1st half tightens the twist in the thread, the 2nd half loosens the twist. I usually put 9 to 14 half stitches in these rings, which must be closed carefully because the thread wants to kink.

After closing the ring, a short chain follows. Hold both of the continuous threads and the tail of the contrasting thread. The tail needs to be long enough to tension it along with the other threads for the multiple core of the chain. (Note: at some place along the "stem" of the flower motif the tail can be abandoned and cut off later. This is how I start the motif without a knot and no tails to sew in.)

 Wrap 1 unflipped double stitch over the multiple core threads. I used 2nd half first, 1st half second for this, but the other way around works too.

Pick up the same shuttle that you used for the first ring to tat the next ring. It is important to keep a main core thread sliding freely inside the chains for the flower, to be able to snug the flower up tightly when it's done. Only after the flower is closed, can any of the threads be used freely.

Follow each ring with an unflipped double stitch wrapped over the multiple core.

Use as many petals as you wish for the flower. Follow the last ring with 1 unflipped double stitch chain. Then, to close the flower and continue with a chain for the "stem", put the chain thread on top, leaving the multiple core threads below, between the 1st and 2nd rings.

Wrap unflipped double stitches for the "stem" chain. If you want the stem to curve upward, bring the wrapping thread under the multiple thread core, then tat first half, 2nd half. To curve the stem downward, leave the wrapping thread below the core and tat 2nd half, 1st half.

After a few stitches, pull the main core thread to tighten the flower. From time to time, also tug the other threads to keep everything nice and tight.

Continue the flower motif any way you wish, throwing off "leaves" and "buds" using any of the threads. To end off, the extra threads can be hidden inside the final rings, and the last ring can be a single shuttle split ring, leaving no tails to sew in. Have fun with it!